Monthly Archives: September 2011

A Beautiful Haven Within Pakistan

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Pakistan is a misunderstood country.  It’s on the news daily about the latest car bombs, Taliban’s attacks and riots. However, since I’ve been in this country I haven’t felt at all unsafe or experienced anything like what the travel advisories keep on reminding me about. I’m not saying it doesn’t happen, it does! What I’m saying is that I’ve found Pakistan’s heaven, a large province in the north called Gilgit – Baltistan.
Gilgit-Baltistan is geography located in and around three of the highest mountain ranges in the world. It has borders with four countries - Afghanistan, Tajikistan, India and China, making this area the most influential province in Pakistan, with huge potential to develop and grow in many different areas. Move over Punjab, you might see your capital move again!


Within Gilgit-Baltistan, there is 7 districts, all with their own individual character, features, culture and tourist hot spots. In the 5 months I’ve been in Pakistan I’ve managed to explore roughly 80% of the main tourist sites and a few unknown gems. While being dazzled myself  by amazing lakes with huge mountain backdrops, I decided to write it all down and collate a guide book for overlanders. As you can imagine, this is a huge task and it will take time to finish off. But below I am giving you a snap shot of Gilgit-Baltistan to wet your appetite and hope you book your next holiday to Pakistan.
Fairy Meadows



Fairy Meadows (at 3,306m) is an emerald tucked away from plain sight in the heart of Northern Pakistan. It is the only place of its kind in the whole of Pakistan, where you will find lush green pastures surrounded by pine forest, overlooking Raikot Glacier with Nanga Parbat Mountain as your back drop. You couldn’t find a more relaxing, dramatic place if you tried.
Nanga Parbat (Killer Mountain – 8126m) is the 9th highest mountain in the world and second highest within Pakistan as K2 is the first. This give Fairy Meadows calm pastures a dramatic back drop where everyone stands mesmerized.
Hunza
Let the colours of Hunza surround you, as the fields change colours with the seasons and the snow-covered peaks bore down on you, in turn giving you an odd sense of scale. Hunza is not only known for its Forts but also for its different culture. Women take a huge part in community, by openly working, socializing and even driving vehicles.
– Altit Fort


Altit Fort – Hunza
Altit Fort and Village view from Eagles Nest. 
Altit Model Village
View from Altit Fort window




Once upon a time Altit Fort was the home to the hereditary rulers of Hunza, now it has been recently renovated by the Agha Khan Trust for Culture, who created an astonishing tourist destination with a model village at its feet.

Just received the ‘2011 Unesco Asia-Pacific Award for Cultural Heritage Conservation’
-Baltic Fort





Baltic Fort




Baltic Fort stands proudly above central Hunza. Its position was once well protected by the Ultar Glacier, which has since receded well up into the valley. In 1996 the restoration was completed by Agha Khan Trust for Culture and is now open for tourist to explore.
http://www.baltitfort.org
Rakaposhi View Point        




A cool breeze brushes over you as you stand on the bridge and gaze up at gleaming snowy glaciers. At 7,788 meters (25,550 feet), Rakaposhi is the 27th highest mountain in the world. This is a perfect spot to break the trip between Gilgit and Hunza.
Gilgit
Gilgit is the capital of Gilgit-Baltistan, in other words it’s a hub, where you can arrange and purchase anything you need or desire. It’s not what’s in Gilgit but around Gilgit, there are many stunning day trips to be had. What Gilgit lacks in tourist activities is made up in the friendliness of the locals. Before you know it, you have a chai in your hand and made a new friend.
-Kargah Buddha




The weather beaten Kargah Buddha rock carving stands proudly on a prominent, north facing cliff 10 kilometers north of Gilgit. It resided below a hill top monastery built in the seventh century, which has since dissolved into the ground. However Kargah Buddha still shows signs of how it was carved.  
- Naltar




Naltar Valley is a where you will discover electrifying colored lakes, pine forests, alpine meadows, wildlife and magnificent snow covered peaks. Within the Valley you will discover Northern Pakistan only ski field, including a chair lift to the upper fields!
Ishkomon Valley
Ishkoman valley is usually unnoticed and backward. But nature has been very generous in providing the Ishkoman valley with a wealth of beauty. Many people here, despite being deprived of the modern necessities of life, are not ready to move from Ishkoman.
Ghizer


Phanda Lake


Ghizer warms your heart as you venture up the valley alongside the Gilgit River. Passing busy beautiful villages, ever changing fields and  fruit orchards are two of the most amazing lakes in this area. Every corner has a new vista to give you a glimpse for what’s to come, if you need more tempting.
Shandur
2011 Shandur Polo Tournament – Gilgit-Baltistan Won! 

Shandur towers 3,700m between two rival provinces, Chitral and Gilgit-Baltistan in Northern Pakistan. This is where the Hindukush, Pamir and Karakoram ranges meet creating an amazing flat wetland area, which only can be crossed between late April to early November. The rivalry between the two provinces comes to heat every year at the famous polo tournament.

Astore Valley
On route to Deosai Plateau, one travels along a slender gorge with sheer drops, narrow roads and hair raising bends which is the entrance to Astore Valley, filled with beautiful green pastures, mud houses and lakes.
Deosai Plateau


Just picture me in a salwar Kameez…
Sheosar Lake
Crossing suspension bridges are all part of Deosai


Standing with my arms stretched out wide, like Julie Andrews in ‘The sound of music’, surrounded by hundreds of different varieties of flowers (I personally know this as we tried hard to collect at least one of every type!), snow peaked mountains in the background, I find myself in Deosai Plateau, the 2nd highest plateau in the world.
Skardu


Skardu Basin


Skardu, capital of Baltistan is perched 2,438 metres above sea level and is nestled in a basin with a backdrop of the great peaks of the Karakorams. Apart from its incomparable cluster of mountain peaks and glaciers, Baltistan’s five valleys – Shigar, Skardu, Khaplu, Rondu and Kharmang are noted for their luscious peaches, apricots, apples and pears.

- Shigar Fort


Shigar Valley









The Shigar Fort is something not to be missed. A recently renovated ex-Raja’s fort and palace, by the Aga Khan Trust has been converted not only into a tourist sight but also a hotel! Sleeping at a fort, surrounded by a beautiful gardens and mountain ranges isn’t something you should skimp on. Turn those pockets inside out and have an experience you will not forget.




Near Shigar Fort are two wooden mosques, which were built by Kashmiri carpenters several hundreds of years ago. Also recently renovated and well worth noting is the amazing wood work.

For more local information please refer to the Gilgit-Baltistan Tourism Department website.

Seeing A Fox At Night Brings Good Luck

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We had come so far from our little Gilgit village, seen a completely different culture within the same country, but we all have to get back to Gilgit for some reason or another. It was time to turn our 50’s Jeep around, retracing our dusty wheel tracks and follow our thoughts home. But not before we ditched our ‘Anti Terrorism Squad’ aka ‘The Horn Man’, off at the police station in Chitral, repeatedly refusing the offer of him accompanying us to the border between the two provinces. Only two days before had we travelled the same route and had no issues on our own, why would it suddenly start now?


Yasir and I in the back of the 50′s jeep, trying to protect ourselves from all the dust! - photo thanks to Hungry Man 
Leaving Chitral behind, we start making our way towards Shandur Pass, but it wasn’t long before the antique 50’s Jeep shudders and dies in the middle of the road. With a mischief grin on his face, Honey Man turns to us and say’s 
‘I think we just ran out of petrol’. 
‘What?   But we reminded you less than 50km back!’ we cried!
‘I know, I know but I must have miscalculated!’ 
Looking about us, there was nothing in sight but bare stony mountains and a hot paved road. Spotting a nice cool shady looking spot 2 kilometres back we leap out and attempt to push our yellow chariot back up the hill towards it. Fruitless thoughts, even a car load of people stopped to help us, but they too gave up and had a much better Idea. Despite their car already bursting at the seams, they managed to fit Honey Man in somewhere with his 20 L jerry can and they headed off towards a petrol station.

The sun bounced off the shiny silver rocks and the black paved road and aimed its heat rays directly into the Jeep, which was our only saviour from the direct sun. Yasir, in desperation, turned the key and it roared into life! We clapped with glee as we started driving in the direction that Honey Man had headed in. 

A faint thought crept into my mind, I didn’t want to spoil the moment but this was serious. ‘Yasir, I think we should stop. If a Diesel engine runs out of fuel completely we will then have to bleed any air from all the hoses’.  Luckily for us, I said this right next to theshadowy haven we pined after only a few moments ago. It had everything a stranded person could desire, shade, water and a ton of places to sit outside. Now all we have to do is keep an eye out for Honey Man.

Our refuge in the shade – photo thanks to Hungry Man


We all went off to do our own things, Hungry Man and I both sat down, with music in our ears and caught up on our diaries. Yasir making notes for when he returns to the office in two days time.   I’m not sure how long we sat there, but it seemed like ages before we heard Yasir cry out. Leaping up I was just in time to see Honey Man disappear around the next bend clinging to the spare tire on the outside of a minivan. A few seconds later he reappears with a massive grin on his face carrying 20L of fuel. Hurray for us!

Honey Man with a huge grim on his return with fuel! - photo thanks to Hungry Man 
Before crossing Shandur Pass, we all thought it wise to fill the jeep, stopping at a petrol station in the middle of nowhere. We all jump at the chance to stretch our cramped legs. Leaping out through the front passenger side, I noticed thick black oil pouring onto the ground. ‘Bus, bus, BUS’ (Stop, Stop, STOP) I yelled at Honey Man. Sensing my urgency he turns the jeep off and takes a look at the huge puddle of oil. Popping the bonnet, we find that the oil filter was completely full of rubbish and the oil was coming out an overflow value. I don’t know if that was entirely correct, but it’s not my vehicle so it wasn’t up to me. One would think you wouldn’t be able to find a oil filter to fit a 1950’s American Jeep in the middle of nowhere, but sure enough this lonesome petrol station has it all!

Fixing the oil filter - photo thanks to Hungry Man 
We had been promised by the fishing police that there will be a feast of trout on our return to Teru in Lungar. But with all our mishaps throughout the day, we hadn’t got as far as we hoped. It was starting to get quite dark, and Honey Man didn’t want to push our bad luck while crossing the 4000 meter high Shandur Pass in the middle of the night.
In the next village he hunted out a friend so we could hopefully sleep in their guest room. He had no idea where they lived but after asking a few locals he quickly found the address. Honey Man disappears into the dark, only to return a few minutes later ‘It was someone with the same name but he wasn’t my friend!’ Laughing, we realised that could only happen in Pakistan!

We were all nervous, it was pitch black, we were climbing higher and higher towards Shandur Pass and the cold was creeping through our clothing as we sat in this side-less Jeep. The head lights made out a metal barrier and guards came out of their tiny cosy hut only half dressed. 
 ‘You cannot pass here, you have to stay here the night’ . We looked at each other and around the jeep. There was absolutely nothing to sleep in or on except the in the jeep as their room wasn’t big enough for four more people. After much argument, we had to sign a waiver to state that we are responsible for our own safety. This made us a little edgy after all the bad luck we have been having today, but we carried on regardless.

Just as we reached the top of the pass, the huge round moon came out to greet us, and reflect into the completely still lakes. Despite the temptation to stop the jeep for a photograph, I realise we are all too cold and tired, it’s just best to carry on to Teru which is only another 20 kilometres.  A fox darts away from the approaching jeep. There is a strong belief  amongst the locals, if a fox is seen at night while travelling, your journey will be safe.

Shandur Pass during daylight!

Shandur Pass


I don’t have much recollection of the next hour. I know from memory we would have crossed through another check point as we enter back into Gilgit-Balitstan province, and travel back down the other side of the pass to Lungar but I must have been so cold and so tired it all faded into nothing…only to come out of my dream state once we reached Teru.
 Surprisingly at 2am in the morning, the fishing police were not waiting for us, with beautiful steaming hot fish. We banged and banged until finally someone answered the door and gave us some food. In a delirious state of consciousness,  I passed on the chai, and fell asleep as soon as I was horizontal.

Honey Man inviting us in for a Chai – Shandur Pass

No better time for chai than on top of the world at Shandur Pass

Honey Man and the Chai Wallah – Shandur Pass
Chai Wallah

Meet the team, Hungry Man (Joel), Yasir, Honey Man and I

Waking to an empty room, I wondered where the boys slept that night? I went to sleep and didn’t even hear them take the bed out and settle into the next room! Peering through the window, they were still fast asleep. I gathered up my diary and Ipod and sat in the warm morning sun. It wasn’t long before I was joined by Yasir who arranged for water to be heated up for a bucket bath.



There is a saying, bad things come in threes. Yesterday, we ran out of fuel, our oil pump died but the third one never eventuated until this morning. The poor yellow jeep had a flat tire. I guess the fox belief is true as I think we would have all lost our patience if we had to stop at 2 am and change a tire in freezing cold temperatures!

Now that we were on the home stretch, with Gilgit only being a five hour drive away we decided to spend time fishing in Phandur Lake before calling this adventure over. But it wasn’t over for the little yellow jeep, as soon as Honey Man  dropped us off, all the wiring burnt out and the jeep was rendered finished!     I guess that was the real third bad thing…

Phandur Lake, Ghizer Valley

Colourful tribe In A Harsh Environment.

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With my vision impaired with an oversize Pakistani ‘Anti-Terrorist Squad’ member sitting between Honey and Hungry Man on the 50’s jeep tool box and lucky for him, Honey Mans woollen shawl.  With a huge Kalashnikov laid across his lap,  the butt resting on Honey Man leg and the barrel on Hungry Man, it gave the three men sitting in the front seat a sense of power that they normally wouldn’t have.

Due to the proximity of Afghanistan, we were forced to take on at least one passenger. The Police Commissioner in Chitral wanted us to take another one, but where are we going to put him? The 50’s jeep could realistically only hold four max ! Therefore they settled for just one, the big guy in the middle. 
 We re-named our guard the ‘Horn Man’, since the road through Bumburet Valley was as narrow as one vehicle, with a lot of turns.  Honey Man was too busy to press the horn button, so we had proper job for our guard do.


Driving into Bumburet Valley was like leaving Pakistan through an invisible border into another country. In fact we did actually have to pass a physical barrier, to have our passports and paperwork from Chitral checked and logged.
Not long after that, Hungry Man yelled ‘Bus, bus, bus!’ (Stop, stop, stop) and leapt out of the jeep with the Horn Man closely in tow, leaving the other three of us sitting in the jeep clueless. They returned to the jeep with Hungry Man looking sheepish as he explained he threw his passport out the window. Fortunately enough for him it didn’t fly down the steep bank and into the river, it just landed on the road.



Climbing further up into the valley towards Afghanistan, I watched the culture change from the normal traditional Pakistani, which I’ve become accustom to, to seeing women active amongst the community. They were openly having conversations with other men, their hand shake represented how open they were. They would take each other’s hand and raise their hand and kiss the back of the hand. You would never see this in Gilgit unless you were shaking the hand of an old woman.

Standing side by side they shuffle sideways around the main singer

The women were no longer dressed in the tradition Pakistani dress ‘Salwar Kameez ‘ , but in black top and long black skirts. The hems of the skirts and the shoulders of the topswere heavily embroidered using a main colour of choice – blue, pink, red, orange or green. From there they would choose accent colours to help give the design punch.  A five meter woven woollen belt in matching colours was tied around the waist and long strings of orange, red, white and yellow beads piled around their necks. 

Before braiding their hair they dip their hair in oil to make it stay in place for longer.

To complete the outfit, on their heads sat two hats, one on top of the other. The first one is the normal every day circular band hat.  The second which they wear on top of the first one, is an elaborate Kupas, which is used for formal occasions and festivals, made up of over 1000 cowry shells, metal ornaments and beads.

The detail that goes into the womens head wear.

dd caption

Note: Before the introduction of acrylic materials in the 1980’s, they use to spin their own wool and dye the threads using soft toned natural dyes, then wove it into useable cloth before stitching together to form their dresses, all by hand. 



The differences in the men’s clothing were subtle but definitely distinct. They wear the traditional Salwar Kameez, but have a colourful braided drawstring for the salwar. Over the shoulder they also wear a wider braided band sometimes decorated with beads and shells. On the front of their cap they proudly wear a feather.



Everyone in the valley was excited. This excitement was amplified as on every roof top and every street corner was someone from the ‘Anti Terrorist Squad’ pointing a barrel at you. ‘Why destroy such a peaceful valley like this?’ I wondered. It was completely against what the Kalash people believed.  But I guess you cannot control everyone and it certainly put a wet blanket over everything.  



We stood high at the top of the village, watching all the colourful women dance around us. There were two main dances I could see,  the main one where a Man would sing songs in the middle while a long line of women circle around him dancing. The other is where women in small groups of five clasp each other’s shoulders and spin in circles.



 This was a celebration of the Joshi Festival which happens once a year as soon as the spring planting has been completed and before the men set out for high mountain pastures with their livestock.

Meeting the one of the daughters of the guest house we were trying to find, we followed her through a maze of houses, across roofs, down step ladders and around vegetable gardens, and we eventually arrive at their wood and stone two story house, overlooking the valley.  Everywhere you looked you could see into the homes of these colourful descendants of the soldiers of Alexander the Great, which was apparent in their skin, eye and hair colour.

This man is a Sherman, people crowded around to hear what he had to say.



In true celebration of the Joshi Festival, we spent the night drinking local alcohol with the owner of the guest house, talking about his culture, his ambitions and his hate for the fact his guests have to arrive with at least two guards from the ‘Anti Terrorist Squad’. ‘It’s just not our culture, to have these people here’.




Resources – Kalasha – Their Life and Tradition by Akiko Wada
Not unlike me, Akiko, left home (Japan) with the intention of travelling to Europe via the Silk Route, but when she stumbled upon the Kalash Valleys, she found herself easily immersed into a Kalash family and eventually married a Kalash man. She created a pictorial book which gives us a glimpse into the lives of the Kalash women.  

Pie Ninja

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I had two good friends decided to meet me in Sri Lanka, for Christmas / New Year holiday period. While we hired motorcycles and had the time of our lifes constantly fixing them, we also had another problem. 

There was three of us, all sharing the same room to keep the cost down, but that meant also sharing each others bathroom habits. One of my friend (name undisclosed due to the fact ill be murdered!) decided they would sneak into other peoples bathrooms and use theirs instead.

Over the three weeks, we developed a complete character and accompany theme song for this sneaky Pie Ninja!

When I decided to give this Pie Ninja a try, I snuck into a dark deserted room. The light switch wasn’t working and I decided it was too dark to even see the toilet! Backing out sheepishly and went to use our common toilet instead. Meanwhile, another guest (who didn’t belong to that room) emerged from the dark and dingy room! 
He must have his own Pie Ninja tricks! 

note: this cartoon story board was designed by Jarred Wright

More Beautiful Things…

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Block-printed handmade French Knickers from Jaipur, India

I’ve uploaded more amazing beautiful clothing from Jaipur, India to ebay – sorry boys you miss out here. By purchasing this item you will be supporting skilled craftsmen/ women to sustain a future for their traditional crafts + skills (such as block printing + embroidery).


Not only are you supporting these amazingly skilled people but also Miss Motomonkey Adventure on her Australia to Africa adventure. By collecting beautiful things in each country Danielle helps share her adventure by putting a piece of it in your home. 


Please check out all the items for sale through this link - ebay and book mark it for future. We are going to try and up load a select few things once a week, internet / power permitting!





If your lucky enough to live in Brisbane, Australia and would like to see all the things on offer, please do not hesitate to contact Louise at her email address to arrange an appointment. 


please do not forget, if you have any questions about any of the items for sale please do not hesitate to drop me an email. 




All handmade, using the traditional block-printing techniques. 

Frozen Wetland On Top Of The World

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Warming my body in the sun, after yet another night shivering in my tent, I gaze up the valley floor to the snowy mountain backdrop. That’s where we are heading today, following the Ghizer River, right up to the start at Khuhush Lake.  Packing all the snack food we own, knowing it’s a six hour return hike to Khuhush Lake, Hungry Man has serious concerns that it’s not enough food. ‘Don’t worry, we will cook some fish!’ Yasir calls out. At the mention of fish, Hungry Man is ready.


Langar Valley, Gilgit -Baltistan


Following Yasir’s mandarin shaped foot prints in the dust, I turned around to find Hungry Man is lacking in speed. Waiting for him, I discover he’s not feeling well. I hand him a packet of sweet biscuits which gives him a bit of energy. This works a treat, as I hand him another packet to put in his pocket. Scrabbling up the last steep section, my feet slipping on the bull dust and stones, my head emerges over the top, I take in a deep breath as the narrow valley opens out to a wide valley with a half frozen lake taking up the entire valley floor.

As my head emerged over the bank, this wonder fill view opened out to me



Exhausted, we sit in the sun and make tomato on crackers with more biscuits for desert. It wasn’t really enough food but it will have to last until we get back or catch some fish. Immediately after we finish our  lunch the boys start fishing. We have to bear in mind, it’s another three hours at least to walk back along the river, fishing as we go.


I had given up on carrying Hungry Mans fish since he never caught any! Following Yasir, we slipped into a great rhythm. He would call or whistle out to me as a fish flew through the air and landed at my feet. Then I was able to slip the fish onto the stick to join his unlucky brothers.  Eventually even I got sick and tired of scrambling over the rocks, the energy gained from lunch had worn off and I was making mistakes in my footing. I was sure I was going to break something shortly. We tracked back across the rocks to the actual track, collecting fire wood as we descended. We made it back to Langar just before night fall.

Dragging our feet, consistently dropping the bits of wood we had collected, we couldn’t see Honey Mans jeep. Disappointed and grumpy at the possibility of having to walk all the way back to the camp, a ray of light shone over the yellow jeep. Thank god for that!


Khuhush Lake was half frozen



Honey Man had his own adventure today. As soon as we left him, he got bogged in the mud. He tried to yell out to us but we were too far away. He walked back to the main fishing area, where he found some good mates of his who came to help push him out. Four hours after he was originally bogged he was finally free. So, it wasn’t only us who had an adventure today.


Hungry Man (Joel) fishing in Khuhush Lake


With our sticks and small logs poking out each side the 50’s jeep, we headed for the main gates of our camping area. I had a vision of Honey Man forgetting about all the wood overhanging the edge of the jeep and trying to enter the compound, only to leave Yasir and I sitting in only half a jeep with a pile of wood on our laps! 

Beautiful Things

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Hand block printed light weight quilt from Jaipur, India

As I travel through the different countries, I am collecting many beautiful things to hopefully include a part of my trip into your life. It’s my way of sharing the different cultures and crafts from around the world. It’s also our way of supporting not only the local people but people with disabilities or a traditional dying art. On top of all that good will, you will also be supporting my travels onward towards completing my Australia : Africa Adventure. 

Rajasthan embroded umbrellas

 With that in mind, I hear spring is finally here, and things are warming up across New Zealand and Australia. The beautiful items we (My good friend Louise) and I have uploaded to ebay will hopefully get you out of your winter blues and into the spirit of summer!


Please check out all the items for sale through this link – ebay and book mark it for future reference, we will be uploading more items as they arrive back in Australia.

If you have any questions about any of the items for sale please do not hesitate to drop me an email. 

Hand block printed light weight quilt from Jaipur, India





Running Of The Fish

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Much to Yasir’s and Hungry Man’s (Joel from Sweden) delight, we started fishing as we drove up the valley. Leaving Honey Man behind to mind the open jeep, we scrabbled / half slid down the steep bank to the Ghizer river’s edge. Sitting down on a grassy patch, the boys start preparing the rods, as cows and goats munched the grass around us.


I keep on telling Yasir he looks like one!
Photo thanks to Joel

As we entered Langar the road had dried up a bit since my first visit
Photo thanks to Joel



In my backpack, I had plenty of water, snacks, camera (for the big one!) and most importantly the music angle (portable speakers). I was completely prepared to have a nice relaxing day spread out in a cosy nook of the stream, only with one ear open for screams of delight when one of them caught something.

I couldn’t get further from the truth. Being able to set up his rod blindfolded, Yasir finished first and headed down to the river. I ambled down after Hungry Man a few minutes later, looking up and down the stream we couldn’t see Yasir immediately. I spotted his white beanie disappearing around the next bend and I wondered what secret spot he knew of.


Hungry Man threw his line in a couple of times before we decided to catch up with Yasir. Half jogging along the massive boulders forming the river’s edge we got him in our sights and Hungry Man threw his line in once again. Looking up, Yasir had disappeared again! What was going on? Why was he running away from us?
The first fish of the day – maybe even the largest!

Finally Hungry Man felt a tug on his line. Reeling in his line he discovers the tiniest trout you ever laid your eyes on! ‘What do you think?’ Hungry Man queries me ‘um, it’s not even bigger than my hand, just throw it back!’ I state.  ‘I’m going to see what Yasir is up to’. Carefully picking my way along the boulders, ensuring I don’t slip into the icy cold raging river, I finally caught up to Yasir. His luck was as poor as Hungry Man’s.



Just as I lay down on a nice smooth warm boulder, Yasir just took off. I cannot believe it, I just caught up with this guy. No wonder he wasn’t catching anything! Not far up the stream he finally landed a tiny trout, it was smaller than Hungry Man’s! I sat gobsmacked when he broke off a branch and threaded it through the gills, creating something for me to carry the fish with. Still stunned I asked ‘are you sure we can keep this one?’ My question was answered when he threw me another tiny fish to thread onto the stick. This was the size, just get use to it.

Yes, thats a trout in his hand!



The river branched out and we made our way back to the jeep with only two tiny fish in my hands. There was no way we were going to feed everyone! Driving on we reached Lunga Valley and pulling into a designated picnic / camping site, we laid out our tents in a room that had been constructed. We had to remember it was still spring, despite the days being warm, the nights were still incredibly cold.   Hopefully having two bodies to a tent and inside will help keep us warm.
Langar, Gilgit-Baltistan

Langar Valley, Gilgit-Baltistan


The three musketeers set off for round two of fishing, while Honey Man stayed behind to create the camp fire. Leaving Hungry Man to fish in his style, I literally chased Yasir down the river. Apparently the technique of ‘fish angling’ was to throw the line in, wind in, run up the stream a few meters and repeat the actions. Every few meters, Yasir would whistle out to me, as I looked up, I caught sight of a fish flying through the air towards my feet. I guess I now had a job, fish collector!


Yasir stood still for a second to snap this shot

Sick of all the running Hungry Man sat down for a rest – then the fish police turned up!

The Hungry Man (Joel) 

I found some ice to laid the trout on


As the sun dipped out of sight, the valley completely changed temperature. My numb fingers tried to keep a grasp on the stick, carrying 30 wet slimy fish. ‘Ok, I’ve had enough!’ Kicking up my heels I made a dash back to the waiting fire. But this wasn’t going to be the end of it. I had to help prepare the fish for cooking in the now nearly frozen river!

The truth of the situation
Photo thanks to Joel

The romantic view
Photo thanks to Joel


Later that evening we ate an amazing dinner of bbq fish and boiled potatoes, all cooked over the camp fire. Never in my life have I ever run while fishing, but I have to say it was well worth all the running!  Hungry Man was only able to contribute a couple of fish using the western stationary technique.
Before this trip, Honey Man had never slept in the same room with a female that wasn’t his mother, sister or wife. He was a bit taken back on our first night, when I was to sleep in the same room as three other men!

Hungry Man and I decided to share my tent. Finally after warming up I fell asleep, but was woken when someone in the other tent un-zipped the door, after a few minutes would then zip it back up. Waking repetitively to this sound none of us got a good sleep. The next day Yasir explained it all.
Honey Man had never experienced a single woman wanting to share a tent with another single man. Normally this means we should have a declared relationship. He couldn’t get his head around two single people sleeping in a tent with no other thoughts than to sleep side by side. In fact I came to think and treat Hungry Man as a younger brother! Poor Honey Man, he spent the night consistently un-zipping his tent to check to make sure Hungry Man and I were not up to any mischief!

All of us were really just dreaming about fishing!

Where You Get Your Visa & Your Stash!

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Visiting the Diplomatic enclave in Islamabad was a bit of an exercise in patience. Before you even enter the building, you must give up your bag, which of course you need to contain all your paper work. At least you’re issued a plastic one. Second you completely patted down like you’re about to go on an international flight. Third, you must surrender your cell phone, and then buy a bus ticket. 30 minutes later at the earliest, your peering out the window of a bus while driving through the enclave. 

The bus attendant is calling out the names of the embassies as we drive pass. I can barely hear him, for I can hardly understand his accent and I’m shocked to see the streets lined with huge marijuana plants. I guess it makes easy gardening!